Every year, hundreds of people flock to the fire station in Lower Alloways Creek, a town in Southern New Jersey, to enjoy a feast of deep-fried muskrats. The annual muskrat dinner is a tradition that dates back to the 1940s, when muskrat trapping was a lucrative business and the leftover meat became a delicacy for the locals.
Muskrats are small rodents that live in the marshlands and have a dark brown fur and a long, scaly tail. They are not rats, but more like beavers, as they only eat vegetation and build lodges in the water. Their pelts were once in high demand for making coats and hats, and trappers could sell them for up to $20 each. The meat, however, was often discarded or given away to the poor.
But some people in Lower Alloways Creek developed a taste for muskrat meat, which they claim has a strong, gamey flavor and a dark, greasy texture. Some compare it to duck or rabbit, while others find it unpleasant or unappealing. “It’s an acquired taste. You either love it or you hate it,” said Bob Bateman, who attended the muskrat dinner this year.
The muskrat dinner is more than just a meal. It’s also a way of celebrating the town’s identity and culture, as well as raising funds for the fire department. “It’s part of our heritage. It’s part of who we are,” said John Painter, a muskrat trapper and cook who has been involved in the event for over 40 years. He said he learned how to trap and cook muskrats from his father and grandfather, and he hopes to pass on the tradition to his children and grandchildren.
The dinner usually attracts about 400 people, who pay $15 for a plate of muskrat meat, potatoes, coleslaw, and bread. The meat is deep-fried in large vats of oil until it’s crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Some people like to dip it in vinegar or hot sauce, while others prefer it plain. The event also features a raffle, a silent auction, and live music.
The tradition of eating muskrats is not unique to Lower Alloways Creek. It’s also practiced in other parts of New Jersey, as well as Delaware, Maryland, and Michigan. But it’s becoming less common as the number of trappers declines and the demand for pelts drops. “I don’t trap for the money. I trap for the love of it,” said Dave Jones, a muskrat trapper and president of the New Jersey Fur Harvesters Association. He said he traps about 200 muskrats every season, which runs from November to March.
Muskrat trapping also faces some challenges from environmental regulations, animal rights activists, and climate change. Some marshlands are protected from trapping to preserve wildlife habitats, while some trappers have been harassed or threatened by people who oppose their activity. Moreover, warmer winters have reduced the ice cover on the waterways, making it harder for trappers to access their traps.
But despite these difficulties, some people are determined to keep the tradition of muskrat trapping and eating alive. They see it as a way of honoring their ancestors, connecting with nature, and enjoying a unique delicacy. “It’s not something you can just go to the store and buy. It’s something special,” said Jim Ayars, who organizes the muskrat dinner every year. He said he hopes that more people will come to appreciate the value and taste of muskrats in the future.
Relevant articles:
– How South Jersey Keeps Muskrat on the Menu, Gastro Obscura, March 13, 2020
– Meet the N.J. muskrat trappers keeping a lonely, little-known tradition alive, NJ.com, March 1, 2023
– I ate muskrat for dinner. Inside the enduring N.J. tradition., NJ.com, March 6, 2023
– The most legally trapped critter in New Jersey? A big rodent some like to eat., The Philadelphia Inquirer, February 15, 2019